- Controlling Problem Algae
- Acropora Red Bug Solutions
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Controlling Problem Algae
Suggestions for Controlling Problem Algae by
Animal Attraction 970-353-3400
www.monsterreef.com
There are several different types of turf algae, seaweeds, or cyanobacteria that under certain conditions can become very problematic in the saltwater aquarium. There are several variables that can be addressed to help to curb and even eliminate problem algae in the saltwater aquarium. However, eliminating problem algae usually involves a multi-pronged approach that may involve changing or correcting several parameters in the aquarium. The following is a brief list of items that should be considered when dealing with problem algae.
PREFILTERED WATER
· Problem algae usually gets it start from the source. Hair algae and cyanobacteria tends to grow faster when higher levels of nutrients and organics are present in the water. Phosphates, silicates, and nitrates, tend to spur the growth of many problem algae in the aquarium.
The first thing that the hobbyist should consider is the use of filtered water for the aquarium. It is best to prefilter the water before it ever enters your aquarium system. The following is a list of different types of tap water pre-filtration (outside of the aquarium) that you may consider :
*** Monsterreef stocks or can special order the following:
- KOLD Steril no waste water tap water filter system
- Reverse osmosis / deionization tap water filter systems
- Phosphate reactor using high grade phosphate media
- Filling your own reservoir or auto top off system with tap water and pre-filtering that tap water with a high grade phosphate removal media filter placed inside a mechanical filter inside the reservoir.
- Monsterreef stocks high grade medias include ROWA Phos, Polyfilter, HBH Phosphate filter pad, Boyd’s CHEMIPURE, Sea Chem’s PURIGEN, high grade marine carbon, and many other filter medias.
*** Other options include:
- Purchasing and using distilled water
- Purchasing a PUR , Brita, G.E. , or other basic tap water faucet filter attachment. (these are one pass filter systems that work fairly well and are provided by other retail outlets. However, these one pass filters may not be as adequate as the filters and medias listed above.)
ALKALINITY , CALCIUM, & pH
- Increasing alkalinity to 10 or 12 DKH, maintaining a high pH of 8.2 or higher, and balancing calcium (420 to 480 p.p.m.), will promote calcification and growth of desirable algae. In turn, this will cause the precipitation of phosphate, and a reduction in the growth of problem algae.
*Monsterreef offers a variety of products that can help to increase Alkalinity and pH, and also balance calcium . Please ask a sales representative about the different alkalinity, pH, and calcium buffers that are in stock and available.
WATER CHANGES
- Performing water changes using pre-filtered water and using high grade reef salt can provide a boost in alkalinity and balance calcium levels. This also will reduce the amount of nitrate, phosphate, and silicate in the aquarium water.
PROTEIN SKIMMING
- Protein Skimmers create a column of tiny bubbles that strip the water column of organic substances and nutrients in the aquarium water. The bubbles rise up in the skimmers chamber and turn into a waste that ends up in a collection cup and forms a dark liquid waste called skimmate. Removing these nutrients, (including phosphate) will help to reduce the growth of problem algae. It will also help to clarify the aquarium water so that light penetrates easier to the aquariums inhabitants, corals, etc..
*Monsterreef offers an extensive line of high quality protein skimmers. Currently our favorite skimmer based on operation, effectiveness or production of skimmate, ease of use for our customer, and pricing is the [ AQUA – C ] brand and line of protein skimmers. Please ask us for details on this line of protein skimmers and the many other brand options that are available.
WATER FLOW
In the aquarium strong alternating water flow (wave making) is very important in keeping live rock and sand beds filtering properly and also preventing the build up of detritus on the crushed coral, sand bed, or the live rock. A build up of nutrient rich detritus can result in the growth of problem algae. Maintaining strong alternating water flow throughout the aquarium will help to break up the detritus and keep it moving into the filter systems. Keeping nutrient rich detritus in check will help to curb the growth of problem algae.
- wavemaker devices, powerheads, stronger return pumps, additional water moving pumps, correct placement of pumps & powerheads, proper arrangement of liverock, and certain species of aquarium inhabitants can help to consume, move, break-up, stir-up, and reduce detritus.
CUT BACK ON FEEDING
If it is appropriate for the species of animals that are in your aquarium, you can reduce the amount of nutrients and detritus that might build up in your system by simply cutting back on the amount of food you feed your system. Keep in mind though, that many aquarium species require consistent feedings to remain healthy.
LIGHTING
Over time all florescent and metal halide bulbs will shift color spectrums and lose intensity. Certain color shifts in older light bulbs can be attributed to the growth of problem algae. It is strongly recommended that you keep your bulbs fresh. Replace your florescent aquarium bulbs (power compacts, VHOs, & T5s) every 5 to 6 months and your metal halide bulbs every 8 to 10 months to insure proper color spectrums. Also, some brands of aquarium bulbs, even though brand new and claiming to be a specific color spectrum, may not truly render the color that they claim to produce. Bulbs with a yellowish, reddish, or pinkish spectrum (a lower Kelvin rating) tend to grow plants and algae faster than bulbs with higher Kelvin ratings. Bulbs with Kelvin ratings higher than 10,000 K tend to grow less problem algae than lower Kelvin rated bulbs. When purchasing bulbs or lighting systems please ask for assistance on bulb brands, Kelvin ratings, and color temperatures.
REFUGIUM MAINTENANCE & REFUGIUM LIGHTING
Properly utilizing a refugium for filtration by growing certain species
of caulerpa algae in the refugium can be very effective in helping to reduce nutrients that would otherwise end up in the show aquarium and grow problem algae in the show aquarium.
If you are operating a refugium for algal filtration and are growing caulerpa algae for nitrifying filtration purposes, then you need to make sure to properly maintain the caulerpa algae in the refugium. Once the caulerpa algae grows into place and fills its growing chamber then you should physically remove about 20% to 25% of the caulerpa algae on a monthly basis. If the caulerpa algae is not cropped back on a regular basis then it can actually begin to die off and release nutrients and toxins back into the aquarium system. This release of nutrients and toxins back into the system can actually spur the growth of problem algae and stress animal specimens in the show aquarium.
Further, using the proper color spectrum light bulb and maintaining those light bulbs properly on the refugium , can help to grow the caulerpa algae faster and filter more effectively. For refugium lighting, replace your florescent type refugium bulbs every 6 to 9 months and metal halide type bulbs every 9 to 12 months. Keeping your bulbs on your refugium fresh can result in curbing the growth of problem algae in your show aquarium.
THE FISH, INVERTS, THE CLEANERS
There are several species of fish and inverts that may actually eat or consume many types of problem algae. Although, keep in mind that there are several different types of problem algae, and that the same species of fish or inverts might be collected from different reef systems that have different species of algae growing there. Basically, one species of tang, lets say a Kole tang from Hawaii, might not be interested in the same algae that a Kole tang from Indoin nesia might be interested in, although they are the same species of tang. Therefore, finding the perfect algae eater for you will usually be a trail and error experiment. You may have to try several different species of algae eaters before you find one that will help your problem. Following is a list of some reef safe (safe for your corals) algae eaters and detritivores that might be very helpful in controlling problem algae and detritus:
***lawnmower blenny, midas blenny, bi-color blenny, black sailfin molly blenny, rainfordi goby, hectori goby, rabbitfish species including the foxface varieties, most tang and surgeon fish species
***royal urchins, lettuce nudibranchs, sea hares, scarlet reef hermit crabs, red tip hermit crabs, turbo snails, tiger turbo snails, astrea snails, nerite snails, red band trochus snails, cerith snails, sifting conch snails, sand sifting cucumbers, sand sifting starfish, nassarius snails, sally light foot crabs, emerald crabs, amphipods, limphets, stomatellas, diadema urchins (but get very large)
Note: there are many more algae eaters and detrtivores, but the above are the most readily available and useful for the reef aquarium.
PRODUCTS
Monsterreef offers some products that have in most instances helped to eliminate or reduce the growth of problem algae.
For Cyanobacteria Algae –Ultra Life Red Slime Remover, Boyds
Chemiclean, BlueVet Red Slime Control
For Hair Algae, Bryopsis, Dinoflagellates – Marine SST by Ultra Clear
PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER
*Most likely it will require a multi-pronged approach addressing many or all of the above listed parameters in your aquarium. A quick fix on its own may only give you temporary results and may not keep problem algae down for the long term. Please make an attempt to address or make adjustments to all of the topics listed above. This will greatly insure a problem algae free aquarium!
RED BUG TREATMENT
Acropora Red Bug Treatment
This is a description of a method for treating acropora eating red bugs in the reef aquarium. At Animal Attraction we have used this regiment with success and feel that this is a proven method for treating Acropora Eating Red Bugs in the reef aquarium. The product used is INTERCEPTOR dog de-wormer. INTERCEPTOR will however, also stress and possibly kill starfish species, bristleworms, feather dusters, and coco worms, and also be adverse or even deadly to shrimps , crabs, crustaceans of all sorts. This following article is being distributed to the general public and was not written by Animal Attraction and Animal Attraction is not responsible in any way for the contents or use of information contained within this article.
The Red Bug Treatment
*******Disclaimer*******
If you use this medication it is at your own risk. No one but yourself is responsible for your actions with this medication. Please read carefully and follow the directions. This medication will most likely kill off all crustaceans in your aquarium.
This medication was first tested in multiple sterile hospital tanks. The dosage and its effect on corals and other typical aquarium animals was determined at this stage.
The second stage took place in 7 reef aquariums owned and/or operated by 7 different people. It took 2 –3 months to get to this point.
The third stage is taking place right now. The medication name has been released and the treatment protocol posted. I would assume people will be treating their tanks on their own before the end of February.
As you can see this medication has gone through a rather small amount of testing and not much time has gone by. All of the results have been positive so far. However, only time will tell if the red bugs will return to treated systems. Time will also tell if there is some sort of sort of side effect that will pop up a year or more from now. I need to make this point clear.
If you use this medication it is at your own risk. No one but yourself is responsible for your actions with this medication.
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Ok, here is the moment many of you have been waiting for. We (myself and the volunteers) feel this medication is effective against red bugs, and probably safe enough to use in a home aquarium.
The medication is a DOG heartworm medication called Interceptor, it is only available from a veterinarian with a prescription. The tablets used in the initial treatments were for large dogs, 51-100lbs. These tablets are just under 1 gram each and contain 23mg of Milbemycin Oxime, the rest of it is a lovely smelling beef flavor. This chemical is active against Nematodes (Heartworms in dogs) and select arthropods (some types of Mange in dogs). Luckily, our red bugs are one of those select arthropods. The tablets come 6 to a box.
Here is the official information from Novartis on the medication.
http://www.ah.novartis.com/products/en/cab/interceptor.shtml
Refer to this thread and read the whole thing before you begin the treatment.
http://reefs.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=43945
The dosage used in an aquarium to kill redbugs is 25mg (0.025 grams) per 10 gallons of actual tank water . That is 25mg of the entire tablet. Each tablet in the pack of 6 will treat about 380 gallons. The tablets are ground with a mortar and pestle into a fine powder.
Do your very best to calculate your actual water volume. Take into consideration your sump, oversized plumbing and things like that. All of the initial tests were done with the estimated volume of live rock and live sand subtracted from the total gallons. You need to make sure that every part of the system that’s capable of holding water is treated. This means your refugium, the water inside your calcium reactor, the water inside your skimmer while it is not foaming.
Measure out the Interceptor on a very accurate scale that is capable of reading down to 0.001 grams. Remember, the dosage is 0.025grams per 10 gallons. For safety’s sake get as close as you possibly can. It has been pointed out that it may not be necessary to get down to the 1/1000th of a gram point when we are guessing on the actual water volume. This is an excellent point, however, since we are pretty much guessing our water volume, we should do our very best to make sure that we treat that guess accurately. We don’t want to over treat an over estimate.
Before adding the medication to your tank, turn off your skimmer (water needs to run through it, but you do not want it producing any bubbles. Remove any mechanical filtration if present. Remove any carbon if present. Turn off UV sterilizers and ozone generators.
Remove any shrimp or crabs that you want to save. They will have to stay out of the system for the duration of the treatment. Remember, that when you add them back to your tank, there is a slight chance that you will re-introduce the red bugs to your tank.
The medication is dissolved into some aquarium water (it is not easily soluble, you will have to stir for a while) and spread evenly across the surface of the water. Your tank should remain perfectly clear and look very normal the entire time. The bugs hang on well into the 4th and 5th hour of the treatment, don’t be alarmed. Many of the bugs will hang on for days even after they are dead.
If anything goes wrong during treatment perform a water change ASAP and add a large amount of carbon to your system.
After 6 hours, a 25% MINIMUM water change is performed and as much activated carbon as you can fit should be added to the tank. In the initial tests, crustaceans that were reintroduced to a tank after a 25% water change and carbon were unaffected by the medication.
24 hours later the water should be changed again and the carbon replaced.
There is no maximum for the water changes or carbon, the more you do the better.
The treatment needs to be performed a MINIMUM of 3 times. We know it kills the bugs, but we don’t know enough about their lifecycle to determine if it kills them at every stage of their life. We have to assume that all of the most of the adults are killed in the first treatment. The goal of the second treatment is to clean up any left over adults, and any juveniles that have hatched out of eggs that might have been unaffected. The third treatment is a “just in case” treatment, its goal is to get any bugs that could have possibly survived the first two. I know that three treatments sounds scary, after the first one you will feel much more comfortable with it though.
The frequency of the treatments has yet to be fully determined. Some of the volunteers in the testing did the first two treatments 7 days apart with the 3rd treatment 14 days after the second. Some did 3 treatments 7 days apart. Personally, I have been doing 2 treatments 24 hours apart every 7 days. I will repeat this 4 times for a total of 8 treatments.
The medication seems to be fairly safe, since we dont know the life cycle of the bug its best to err on the side of caution and treat several times. Pretend its an antibiotic, if your going to use it once, make sure you do the whole treatment process at least 3 times!!!
Refer to this thread and read the whole thing before you begin the treatment.
http://reefs.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=43945
Some things to remember.
1. The ENTIRE system has to be treated. There could be bugs or bug larvae anywhere in your system. Do not take your refugium offline. Do not turn any part of your filtration off that will trap water. For example, if your skimmer is shut off, but has 1/2 gallon of water in it, that water needs to be treated!
2. You will probably kill off a lot of your pods, shrimps and crabs.
3. This medication has not been tested for very long. The bugs might come back. Like anything you put in your tank it could be toxic a year down the road.
4. The pills are for Large dogs, 50-100lbs. The dose is 25mg/10gal/6hrs.
5. If the treatment is not successful and you still have bugs visible after the 1st treatment, make a slight adjustment to your dose and start over again. This was only necessary in 1 out of 7 systems tested. It was a very old, large and intricate system.
6. I am sure, someone, somewhere will overdose or do something wrong. I am sure that someone will blame a tank crash 6 months down the road on this medication. Remember, no one but yourself is responsible for that!!!!!
Quarantine
I have not been able to come up with an effective, quick kill dipping strength. Even at 100x strength, the bugs lasted over 30 minutes. The best way to keep them from getting back in your tank is to treat the coral for the full 6 hours, an increased dose seems to be safe for corals. You are only going to be treating your new coral once. If the bug lays its eggs on the corals (no one knows) they could hatch off a week later in your aquarium.
Some questions that people have posed online already:
Where do I get the medication?
I was able to get Interceptor by being honest with my local Vet and telling them what I was going to use it for. I would suggest trying this route first, several people have already been successful with this approach. If you can’t get from your local vet, there are Canadian mail order companies that will ship the medication without a prescription.
How important is it to use a scale that’s accurate down to .001 grams. Where do I find a scale like that.
In my opinion, its pretty important to measure out the medication accurately. I have tested corals at doses 10x and 100x higher, but I do not know what it would do in an aquarium.
I am sure if your patient and try hard enough you will find a scale you can use. Everyone knows someone who knows someone else that has access to a scale like this. Perhaps at a local school or university.
You can prepare all of your treatment when you go. Store the medication at room temperature, in the dark in an air tight container. Do not let it get cold.
So you are saying to use 25mg of Interceptor per 10 gallons. Not 25mg of Milbemycin Oxime. Is that correct?
That is correct, each large dog tablet contains 23mg of Milbemycin Oxime. The tablet weighs just under 1 gram. You will be using 25mg (0.025grams) per 10 gallons.
How did you come up with this ?
I was looking into medications used to kill crustaceans. I was thinking of using several medications used to treat parasite problems in saltwater and freshwater fish. I was ready to order Dylox (a crustacide). That night I spoke to Jeremy from Coral Reef Aquarium online. When I told him what Dylox did, he told me that he knew someone who treated their pond (Koi) with the dog medication Program. Program’s active ingredient is Lufenuron. It’s a chitin synthesis inhibitor. I was very excited and tried to get this medication the next morning. I was unable to get Program so I decided to try Sentinel instead. Sentinel has the same amount of Lufenuron as Program, but it has the added ingredient Milbemycin Oxime. The initial test worked to kill the bugs. I was very excited. I stored the medication in the freezer that day. The following day I was able to get a pill of Program. I setup another test, one with the Sentinel again and one with the program. Both of those tests failed, the bugs were unaffected. The freezer was the only explanation for the Sentinel not to work. It was odd that the Program didn’t work, but this meant that the ingredient that killed the bugs the first time must have been the second ingredient in Sentinel, Milbemycin Oxime.
Milbemycin oxime is the active ingredient in Interceptor. The next day I picked up a pack of Interceptor and proceeded to fine tune the dose and perform rudimentary sensitivity testing on as many random aquarium animals as I could. Jeremy was the first person to use it in an aquarium a few weeks later. It was decided that the medication and its treatment would be public knowledge. My employer was not interested in even attempting to commercialize it.
I wanted to thank Jeremy at Coral Reef Aquarium for his help with this project! I couldn’t have done this without him. I want to thank the other volunteers as well, Janine, Paul, Andre, Chris and Joe!!!
Please read the original thread in its entirety before proceeding with the medication. It is located here:
http://reefs.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=43945
This thread will be locked, please discuss it on this message thread. Please ask any questions you have before you move forward.
http://www.reefs.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=45787&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
Lastly. I did all of this work for you guys. The medication seems to be safe in aquariums, however your results may vary. Please be careful, think about what your doing. You are adding a poison to your tank.
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